Winds keep getting furiouser and furiouser...

Day 14, km 700

Dutch rain is like the Wonkavator. Normal rain can only go up and down, but Dutch rain can go sideways, and slantways, and longways, and backways. And frontways? Yes, and squareways, and front ways, and any other ways that you can think of. Today we got our first taste of dutch rain.
I have been appreciative of the good weather we've had for the majority of the trip -- for the blue sky and tumbling cumulus clouds or how it always stops raining when we need to set up or take down the tent -- but these past few days have introduced us to ceartain climatological challenges. And with challenges comes adversity. And with adversity, opposition. Just joking. But seriously, Holland's flatness makes it as much an oasis for bikers as it does for sweeping winds and fast moving weather. I was hoping the winds that whipped our faces and crept into our jacket cuffs coming north would be pushing against our backs coming south. Somehow that was not the case. The wind seemed to greet us head on no matter which direction we were going and brought with it everything from oceanwater to mulch to the scent of cows or roses or old women. Its nice, in a way, being out here and seeing what actually happens when the sane are inside.
Today's weather made me appreciative in a different way. To my aunt and uncle I was appreciative for the paniers and rack that laughed at the rain. To jen of feel good farm in dexter, OR for the softshell jacket which kept me dry for the first 10 minutes and moderately warm for the subsequent hours. To Survivor, Jay Sean, and Raffi I was appreciative for an eclectic and catchy internal soundtrack. To Lucy's parents, Anne and Andy for our collapsible, 4lb something oz summer home. And to my parents, andrew, and everyone else along the way who pushed me to do things that I didn't think I could do. Today I thank you. *bum bum bum bum* (for those with an instrument - c f e g).
One thing that kept me going whilst biking through the grassy sand dunes today was the fantasy that I was actually a giant biking through the mountains. It was pretty entertaining and made it seem like we were going super fast. In the real world, due to inclement weather, we only covered about 30k today, pulling off at a campsite around 1 o'clock, drenched to the bone.

Alas we have dried and are indulging in cotton, ghurkins and leftover spanish rice equivalent (as close as camping foodies on a budget can get). So hope you had your hat and a strong grip today. Otherwise, back to the hat store; tomorrow is another day.

You must make exceptions in order for exceptional things to happen.

N

Texel Island...

"Look at all the colors!" Nate yelled back at me from his bike through the windy windy day. That is what it is like here- dunes and pastures and sand and forests and teracotta roofs - all combining to make a lovely landscape indeed. I'll tell you one thing, never seen wind like I've FELT it here. But that is for another time, or post - Holland weather. For now, just a few pics of our load-free day of cycling Texel Island.
L

The big city.

After spending 2.5 days getting to Amsterdam, we were ready for the big city (and a break from the bikes...well I was anyway). Our last night before we got here was another surprise- we happened to pick a campground that was basically a small city! Pool with a slide, restaurant, market, bowling, 'midgetgolf', concerts... A different world really. Granted I've never been to campsites not in parks in the states... But I don't think they are like this? Turns out, we were staying one small town away from where a friend of mine from NZ lives! Unfortunately we didn't get to meet up there but we are still scheming.

Yet another campsite surprise when we arrived at the site just outside amsterdam... Our tent is so close to others we could share poles if we wanted. BIG site with lots of young tourists... Different feel than small cozy sites with all friendly dutch 'locals'. Alas, nothing has been stolen which was my major worry here.

We ventured into town the last two days and are completely impressed with this city. It's supposedly the densest city in Europe but we wandered down many quiet streets, hearing only the hum of the many distant bicycle wheels riding riding along. We didn't have a guidebook but with the help of my facebook friends we found some awesome foods, sites, bars, coffeeshops, museums, and markets! I was in heaven at the van Gogh museum as I spent time studying his life and work while abroad in southern france... We even saw a lot of paintings where I have seen the actual place..a thrilling feeling. I'm not quite sure if it is the style I love or his poetic descriptions about nature and life... But his work gives me this rush whenever I see it in person. (some great ones in the MET also)

My other fav was this pancake house we had lunch at... Hard to describe them but a combo of crepes and our style pancakes I think... Either way there were multiple times when I would close my eyes in enjoyment only to open them and see Nate in the same state of pure taste satisfaction.

It was really neat seeing all the different bikes in Amsterdam, they are not the shiniest by a long shot but as far as functionality goes, big thumbs up. People fit their entire family on bikes it seems ! Many creative ways to hold people/stuff besides panniers. When I can I will post some pics from my real camera(all these photos come from the phone camera).

This morning there is moisture surrounding our tent from last nights rain. Except now it is so quiet and the sun is shining so bright that I'm not worried about packing this baby up. A bird just landed on the rain fly. All is well. After we see the city by bike we head to Edam (yes cheeeese) north of here. Ready to ride again, sure. Bring on the next 500 km!
L

Amsterdam... loveee

Pink skies and smiling faces.

It just started raining out of nowhere and somehow I've barely flinched. Maybe I've become used to the outdoors in the past week and know that it is all so fleeting. We realized today that we've been outside for almost 6 days straight. It's strange when you find yourself longing for a chair ! It has been wonderful though, sitting by the river, cooking, swimming, chatting with other campers. Campsites in general are a much better way to see a country and meet the people from it (since they rarely stay at touristy hotels).
In other news, we are now in the Netherlands! We started to sense it for about 5 km before we reached the border... People passing by were all of a sudden a new breed of friendly, and they said 'morgen' a little funny. There was no sign though when we actually 'crossed the border'... A bit anti-climactic. We met a dutchmen the night before at our campgound and he was returning from holiday in Germany... He put us to shame with the 160 km ride he just completed... But also gave us some great advice on where to ride in the Netherlands. After this first friendly encounter, we've only been greeted by friendly Dutch people curious about what we're doing, where we are heading, and who we are. People stop to offer help when we are just looking at a map..at our campsite the owner and guests were all gathered around the bar last night asking us questions and while Nate played piano until it closed, the owner asked him to come play again in the morning he liked him so! Our camping neighbors were having a bbq and offered us a steak (the american in us said oh no thanks politely). And to top it all off... There was a beautiful pink sunset right over the lake along with a full orange moon and fireworks in the distance. Seriously Netherlands!?
which is very exciting indeed.
Needless to say, the past 24 hours have been the best yet.
L

Lucy took a turn for the wurst.

Day 5, kilometer 290.

Alternately, German food is the wurst, but in fact, no, its actually quite tasty. Wednesday was our first day off after our first three days on the road. We got to visit the lovely town of Düsseldorf and enjoy some of the pleasures of sedentary life including cotton, rollercoasters, and lebanese cuisine. Oh, and of course, we had to try the famous german wurst which did NOT live up to its name. Quite good, it was.
And yes following the wurst came the rollercoaster at the seasonal themepark across the river (not followed by the wurst again, luckily, though the rollercoaster did occur quite soon after our delightful degustation).
After the rollercoaster came the local pool on the only cloudy day we could find for kilometers, but it was indeed a good splash.

Today we were back on the road. Campsites were scarce along the stretch so we spent a good 7 hours today biking our first metric century ride! (that is, >100k) We finally found the campsite after an eventful ride filled with friendly germans, large nuclear plants, hairy cows, delays for cattle crossings, and a couple botched stops ending in an awkward tumble. We also found ourselves talking to horses and learning to appreciate the often present perfume of the cow chips that spotted the path. We spent quite a bit of time on round trip rides to the spot where we realized we were going the wrong way. Oh! And we came across the most amazing automatic square-ular wakeboard towline that most certainly eludes words.

The Rhine path flows through the glorious countrysides ruthlessly interruped by vast industrial wastelands which really make me understand the compromises that industrial societies make to afford the lifestyle that its people demand. These are places that one would usually have no reason to go, as people have no place there, but which are often necessary to provide the power, products or materials that we use daily. Its important to think about where our things come from, where they go, and at what cost. *steps off soapbox*. But seriously, check our "Cradle to Cradle" by William McDonough or google "the story of stuff".

Anyway, back to bikes. It has been quite the day here and tomorrow we enter Holland! One country down, six to go. I'm going to go out, buy a hat, and hold on to it. I suggest you do the same.

N

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Pictured at top...
Nate picking wild blackburries that are everywhere.
Cattle crossing.
Pretty scenery.